Fringed by quaint fishing villages with fairies and elves dancing through its forested heart, the island of Chiloé has a magically historic energy flickering through the air. This is no coincidence. The rugged, warm population has been fiercely protective of its distinct, sea-faring culture for hundreds of years. Chiloé is a long stretch of pastoral hills and dense forests off the coast of mainland Chilé, with a northern tip approximately one 10 hour bus ride plus a 30 minute ferry ride south of Santiago. My first stop was the picturesque harbor village of Ancud. On my first day there I took a boat ride around a much smaller island nearby to see some wildlife, which ended up feeling a little like a National Geographic article. I arrived back at the guesthouse just in time to go on a sunset tour of some beaches within 20 minutes by car, courtesy of the guesthouse owner (and his dog). I’m sure it was still only a crush at this point, but this is where the love story with Chile really began.