I arrived in Yangon at 10:30PM and though the streets were dark it was immediately apparent that this was a different place than anywhere I had been before. There were physical manifestations- the absence of any buildings higher than a few stories, the attire of the people and the foreign smells wafting through the air. Even more apparent was the distinctly different feel of the place. After 5 minutes I was hooked and Myanmar remains my favorite country in all SE Asia.

There are a few obvious aspects that set Myanmar apart from its fellow SE Asian countries. Having just re-opened its borders in 2011 the country is still in a transition to becoming a full fledged tourist destination, which makes it a perfect time to visit. There is a refreshingly small amount of random ticket booths everywhere, and I did not feel like a big, walking dollar sign. The technology and culture of the people has changed little from when it closed its borders over 30 years ago. While an influx of money from joining the global economy brings promise of renewed infrastructure and higher quality of life for many people, there is no denying that exploring a snapshot of the “old” way of life is a rare and thrilling experience for the curious traveler.

The highlight (literally and figuratively) of Yangon is the Shwedagon Paya, mounted high atop a hill visible from just about everywhere in the city. Myanmar is considered the most devoutly Buddhist country in the world and the great, golden monument stands above all the other countless pagodas in both size and importance. It is known to have existed since between the 6th and 10th centuries, but according to tradition was constructed 2600 years ago. It is believed to contain relics from four Buddhas including a staff, a water filter, a piece of robe and eight hairs. To give a sense of the importance of Buddha hairs consider this quote describing events when the casket containing the hairs was last opened: “There was a tumult among men and spirits…rays emitted by the Hairs penetrated up to the heavens above and the hells below…the blind beheld objects…the deaf heard sounds…the dumb spoke distinctly…the earth quakes…the winds of the ocean blew…Mount Meru shook…lightening flashed…gems rained down until they were knee deep…all trees of the Himalayas, though not in season, bored blossoms and fruit.”